In the Stockholm Archipelago, the Islands Are Yours to Roam

Swedes have a word for the freedom to roam: allemansrätten, meaning “everyman’s right.” Officially translated as the Right of Public Access, it lets anyone walk, swim, and camp in nature, as long as they leave it as they found it.

Earlier this year, Visit Sweden turned that idea into a contest. Its Your Swedish Island campaign asked international travelers to make their case for why they deserved to look after one of the country’s 267,570 islands for a year. The five most creative entries won. Each winner received a round trip to Sweden for two, and a year to camp on, explore, and care for their very own piece of Swedish wilderness.

I tested that freedom in the Stockholm Archipelago, where one of the prize islands lies among thousands of others. Some are nature reserves, some are old sea-pilot villages, and many are an easy ferry ride from the city.

Visiting the Stockholm Archipelago

The simplest way is to choose an island served by a regular ferry and make it a day trip from Stockholm. Grinda and Sandhamn are two of the more common choices because of good ferry service.

Grinda is a nature reserve with walking paths and kayaks to rent. There is one lovely hotel and some cottages and cabins so visitors can linger after the day-trip boats leave.

Sandhamn, farther out, is a historic sea-pilot village and the charming red houses greet you on arrival. Its harbor, restaurants, and hotels make it a good choice for travelers who want an island with more going on.

You can experience the archipelago without boarding a ferry, too. On Värmdö, which is connected to the mainland by road, Siggesta Gård sits among woods and has a spectacular restaurant. Visitors can walk, swim, or feed the alpacas.

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For a quieter trip, there is Bullerö, a nature and bird preserve in the outer archipelago. It has bays and rocks for swimming, but no restaurant or grocery store. Visitors need to check the separate boat schedule and bring what they need for the day.

Utö, in the southern archipelago, has some beautiful beaches, multiple places to eat, and hotels for overnight visitors.

Another Side of Stockholm

It is easy to spend an entire visit to Stockholm in its museums, neighborhoods, and nightlife and never venture very far beyond the city. But the archipelago is close enough to make an island visit part of the same trip. A ferry ride can take travelers from the capital to a place where the afternoon is spent hiking, swimming, or sitting by the water.

Not only that but it will give you a peek at what matters in Sweden. Time outdoors is part and parcel of daily life, and the country’s Right of Public Access reflects the idea that nature is there for everyone to enjoy and care for. It helps explain why Visit Sweden chose islands with no houses or luxury amenities for its contest. The setting, and the freedom to spend time in it, was the prize.

I felt that most clearly on the quieter islands. There was no monument I had to reach or activity I had to complete. After the city, it took me a little while to stop looking for the next thing to do. Once I did, the boat rides, walks, and time along the shore felt like enough.

Somewhere out there, one of the winners may be pulling a canoe onto their own granite shore right now. I didn’t get an island for a year. But after experiencing the archipelago myself, I understood why so many people dreamed of an island of their own.